Cornsnakes (Elaphe guttata or Elaphe pantherophis) average a very manageable 2-4 feet in length and captive bred are farily docile and handle well. Evaluating your commitment level prior to purchase is essential to purchasing a Cornsnake as they can live up to ten years. The amazing range of colors and patterns has made the Cornsnake one of the most popular colubrids available today.
Glass aquariums, plastic tubs or custom wooden/plastic caging of appropriate size work well for cornsnakes. A 20 gallon “breeder/long” aquarium with a secure lid works well for cornsnakes of any age. Making sure the tank is escape proof is essential. Snakes in general are great escape artists and will not hesitate to make a run for it. If you prefer to use plastic tubs in a rack system, a 6qt shoebox size container works well for hatchlings, 15qt for yearlings & sub-adults and 28-32qt tubs for adults. Ventilation holes should be drilled into the container to allow for proper aeration.
It is not recommended to house more than one cornsnake per enclosure. The problems that arise from co-habitating include cannibalism, transmission of disease and stress (stress in itself can cause a lack of appetite in a snake). It is better to avoid a problems than create them.
Cornsnakes need plenty of hide boxes. Standard toilet paper or paper towel rolls work well for hatchlings and sub-adults. Plastic bowls, found at a dollar store, work great for adults. Simply cut a hole into one of the sides and turn upside down. Realistic hides can be found at a local pet store. We recommend that hide items chosen are easy to clean and disinfect. Make sure you supply a water dish large enough for the snake to soak in. Check water daily and replace old water every week. Keeping the water dish, substrate, and enclosure clean will ensure that you snake stays happy and healthy.
Recommended substrates include Aspen, Astroturf, Butcher Paper, Cypress Mulch, Newspaper and Paper Towels. Avoid cedar shavings, cedar chips and sand.
Cornsnakes rely on thermoregulation to control their body temperature. Since they cannot produce their own body heat, you must supply them with an environment in which they can regulate their own body temperatures. Access to a warm area or a basking spot is very important to your snake’s health. To maintain health, cornsnakes must be kept at 75-85 F, using the higher temperatures to digest their food. A commonly used method for heating is using an under tank heater on one side of the tank. UTH’s are usually adhesive on one side so that they may be stuck directly to the tank. Flexwatt heat tape is another option to provide belly heat. With any heating device, a thermostat to control the temperature is a must. A digital thermometer is also essential to accurately monitor temperatures.
Cornsnakes are carnivorous and captive mice bred for the purpose of feeding reptiles is ideal. Most Cornsnakes will readily take frozen/thawed food items. Should a snake require live prey, remove the rodent after 15 minutes if the snake expresses no interest. A live rodent can cause serious damage to a snake that is not interested in eating. Cornsnakes should never be given wild caught rodents as they could potentially carry any number of diseases which could be detrimental to the health of the snake.
Sample Feeding Schedule
Single pinks (2-3g) every 5-7 days (Snake Weight = 4-15g)
Double pinks (3g x 2) every 5-7 days (Snake Weight = 16-23g)
Small fuzzies (5-7g) every 5-7 days (Snake Weight = 24-30g)
Regular fuzzies (7-9g) every 5-7 days (Snake Weight = 30-50g)
Hoppers (9-12g) every 5-7 days (Snake Weight = 51-90g)
Weaned (14-20g) every 7-10 days (Snake Weight = 91-170g)
Adult (24-30g) every 7-10 days (Snake Weight = 170g+)
Not all cornsnakes will cooperate 100% with this sample schedule. The weight ranges given for prey items and snakes are approximate.
Before you decide to breed your cornsnakes, consider the responsibility of housing and feeding the hatchlings. Never should you produce hatchlings that you do not have the time, energy, and means to take care of properly. Research your area to see if you will have an outlet for the offspring and never consider releasing an unwanted or unsold snake into the wild!
Your snakes should be in optimal conditions before breeding. Females should be a minimum of 300 grams and males 150 grams. Before attempting breeding, you can provide a cooling period, known as brumation. This mimics their natural hibernation period, but is not required to successfully breed this species. Before placing them into brumation, make sure their last meal has been fully digested. Then begin slowly lowering the temperature by 5-10 degrees each week, allowing them to adjust. The entire process should last 2-3 months, with about a month at the lowest temperature of 50 F.
After four weeks 50 F, gradually begin increasing temperatures to normal levels. Again, it is important to do this slowly so that the snakes do not suffer from shock. When they begin to exhibit normal activity, offer them a small meal. If a regular feeding schedule is shown, you may start pairing your snakes or wait until after the female post-brumation shed.
We recommend a one day on, three day off breeding schedule. What this means is that the female will be introduced to the males enclosure for 24 hours, if a lock is witnessed during this time, the female is immediately removed after they separate. This provides both snakes with time to rest and feed in between pairings. A minimum of three witnessed locks is recommended. To determine if a female is gravid, run your fingers along the ventral side from mid-body to just above the vent, eggs can be felt as small bumps. This is not full proof, a female can still be gravid without being able to feel the eggs. A female will require more food than normal while gravid, and a moist hide should also be provided so that she can retreat to and lay her eggs. Egg laying usually happens about a month after a pre-lay shed.
Cornsnake eggs will hatch when incubated at temperatures between 75-85 F, so it’s best to remove the eggs from the mother once they are laid. Turning the eggs at any point could cause the snake embryo to drown, so care must be taken when removing them. Do not try to separate them if they adhered together, this risks tearing. Recommended incubation mediums include perilite, vermiculite, orchid moss, organic soil and SuperHatch. Depending upon temperatures, the hatchlings will begin to pip in 50-65 days.
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